Chechnya has introduced a new ban for women's fashion that prohibits traditional clothing featuring "masculine elements." While this isn't the first time the Russian republic's authorities have imposed restrictions on women's appearance, observers say the rationale behind the latest rules is about control –- not tradition, as claimed.
The Chechen Culture Ministry said clothing designers are now prohibited from using certain styles that "contradict traditional customs and cultural values." Specifically, the authorities cited gazyrs -- rows of bullet pockets sewn in rows at chest level on the traditional cherkeska, a high-necked woolen coat.
Why were gazyrs singled out?
"Warriors used them to store gunpowder charges," the ministry explained. "Over time, they became a symbol of courage, honor, and a protective spirit."
"The use of such elements in women's clothing is perceived as an infringement on male symbolism and a violation of centuries-old traditions," it concluded.
This is the second restriction on women's appearance by the Chechen authorities in less than a month. In late October, women were banned from going outside without a head scarf.
A woman caught without a head scarf will be subject to "explanatory talks," according to Amir Sugaipov, an aide to the republic's strongman leader, Ramzan Kadyrov.
Niqabs, Muslim head coverings that have a slit for the eyes, are also banned.
A Test Of Loyalty For The Masses
Political observers, historians, and advocates for women's rights have criticized the official line that these restrictions reflect Chechen culture.
The Marem crisis group, which advocates for women's rights in the North Caucasus, said it was "hardly surprised" that the "men from the Culture Ministry decided to find fault with women's fashion. What we would like to see is civil servants fighting for other symbols of courage and dignity – like the end of femicide and the rejection of violence" against women.
Political scientist Ruslan Aisin compares the situation to that in North Korea, which also regulates what clothing and even hairstyles people can wear. A totalitarian regime demands absolute ideological loyalty -- "so there are no deviations," he said.
The same thing is happening in Chechnya, he adds, and it has nothing to do with traditions and more about a test of loyalty among the populace.
"Everything the state does in terms of culture is always for show and is always aimed at control. Firstly, there's official culture, and then there's folk culture. They often clash. If you take Chechen traditions, there's no dictator."
Dress Codes And The Politics Of Succession
Kadyrov has long been known to install family members in powerful cabinet posts. He also has his eye on his eventual succession.
Isa Ibragimov, a relative of Kadyrov's, heads the Culture Ministry, which announced the latest ban. Kadyrov's daughter, Aishat Kadyrova, held this post from 2021 to 2023, before becoming deputy prime minister for social affairs. The 26-year-old Kadyrova resigned in February, saying the job was more suited to a "strong man" and that she intended to focus on a career in business.
These business interests include her most famous enterprise, the Firdaws fashion house. According to the mission statement on its website, Firdaws' designers "work in the authentic modest fashion segment" and produce clothing that is "true to traditional Chechen style, Vainakh patterns, and nature" for "men and women who prefer an elegant style and remain true to their culture."
Both Kadyrova and Firdaws are under sanctions by the European Union and the United States. Now that it can no longer do business abroad in Western countries, Firdaws' collections have become even more conservative.
Political scientist Aisin says Kadyrova could very well be a beneficiary of clothing restrictions for Chechen women.
"Within Chechnya, there's a power transition underway from Kadyrov, from a monocentric model to a polycentric one, to the family. This requires some movement, ideological and political steps. Basically, they need to distribute power among his daughter, son, grandchildren, son-in-law, in-law, and so on," Aisin said.
"Aishat, for example, will oversee this. She will have a kind of external, symbolic element of power. I don't think Kadyrov personally formulates it this way, but it logically follows from everything they're doing there."
'Maintaining Order' For The Kremlin
Svetlana Anokhina, the founder of Marem, said using "traditions" as grounds for bans is a longstanding trend in the North Caucasus.
"Men have always perceived various 'border violations' by women as an infringement on their privileges and their 'masculinity,'" she said.
Even the act of Kadyrov handing down such a ban contradicts Chechen tradition, she explained.
"According to tradition, a stranger cannot give orders to a woman -- he must address her through the men in her family. But apparently, Kadyrov considers himself the 'father of the people' and acts accordingly: He allows women to be punished, publicly reprimanded, forbidden from wearing certain items, and vetoes their attire," Anokhina said.
Fatima Gazieva of PeaceWomen Across the Globe in Belgium said Chechen authorities are using such restrictions not only to strengthen control within the republic but also to demonstrate their loyalty and ability to "maintain order" to the Kremlin.
If the authorities want to follow traditions, they should protect women, not control them.
"We're talking about respecting women's dignity, which has always been part of genuine, not politically exploited, Chechen values," she said. "In other words, if the authorities truly want to uphold tradition, they should protect women, not control them."
